Saint Martin In The Fields

 It's mid- morning in late November I'm driving to Pignataro station. Suddenly my attention is caught by an advert on the radio: 'Do you speak mezzo (half) Italiano, mezzo Inglese?'

 I'm nodding fiercely. Suddenly there's a place for the half-baked hybrids like me. Only to have my hopes dashed seconds later as I discover that the place is Amazon Black Friday deals. 

A sad reflection of the wider society we all inhabit!

For some real Advent spirit I guess we need to look closer to home! What better place to start than the oldest church  in  Giano? Time to head back to Rocciano.

I choose a beautiful bright December afternoon for my pilgrimage. Accompanied by my step-daughter, Rossella and armed with a prayer, candle and matches. We reach the church in  only 15 minutes. It is now in ruins. This is Saint Martin's. It lies outside Rocciano, in the fields just below the village.

Investigations indicate that this very church was built on the foundations of a much earlier one. In fact it now seems  to be highly probable that it was the one that gave Giano Vetusto its name. It was a temple dedicated to 'Ianus Pater' (il Pater Giano). A popular Roman god  that they believed protected farmers,
who was identified with their major god, Jupiter.

The site for the temple was carefully chosen. It had to be outside the place of habitation, but close enough to protect it. Giano, the two-faced god with one face watching over the inhabitants and the other looking out for intruders beyond.

In addition, it was located close to crossroads, which were sacred for the Romans and needed the protection of a local god. In fact Christians inherited this same belief and often placed crosses or small shrines near crossroads.

 

It seems that Saint Martin's church replaced the Giano temple  some time in the fifth century AD, a time when Christianity was spreading rapidly throughout the Roman empire. This had been encouraged by a decree of the emperor Constantine in 313 AD, giving tolerance to the Christian faith.

So why was Saint Martin chosen? Firstly his lifespan spanned the previous century ( 315-397 AD) and  his miracles and works had been widely publicised. H was sanctified in the fifth century. Secondly  Saint Martin himself was amongst the strongest advocates of building new Christian churches on top of pagan temples. This was further encouraged by  another Roman emperor, Theodosius. He  issued an edict in 380 AD  that  outlawed the idolatry of pagan gods and declared Christianity to be official state religion.

So who was Saint Martin? He was the Bishop of Tours and also patron saint of wine makers. He was born in Pannonia (modern Hungary) on 316/317 AD, the son of a Roman army officer. Spending his childhood in Pavia, Italy aged 15 he was compelled to follow his father  into the army. 

One cold November day, he came across a crippled beggar. Having nothing to give him and , he took his sword and cut his cloak in two. That night he had a dream in which he heard Christ say: 'Whatever you do for the least of my people you do for me'. Shortly after that he converted to Christianity. Immediately after the weather changed, becoming much milder- hence the phrase 'San Martino Summer'. 

He went on to found the first monastic community in Gaul.

Martin preached in the countryside, performing many miracles, from communing with animals to raising people from the dead.  When Martin himself died in 397 AD, those around him heard choirs of angels singing. In Venice you can find Torta di San Martino, a cake shaped like the saint on horseback.

January First, 2022. The festivities are over for another year. What festivities I may ask????? Covid cancelled my Christmas celebrations- like it has done for many. The flight  to Edinburgh, the party in Pastorano, time with my Italian family. All gone. At least I still can  light my  lantern and pray for a better Christmas and  year ahead. 

I've pictured the scene so many times before. My glowing lantern drifting high in the sky, out over Pastorano and Pignataro below. And beyond towards Napoli and the sea on the horizon.  

 In  late afternoon mist, I  finally set my lantern adrift. It climbs rapidly but flies in directly   the opposite direction!   Back to Giano!

 On reflection, I take it as a good sign. I  head home. Home to my harbour bright.   Protected by watchful gaze of Saint Martin. Saint Martin in the fields.

San Martino (Saint Martin’s Day 11th November)

by Giosuè Carducci

 

La nebbia agli irti colli

piovigginando sale,

e sotto il maestrale

urla e biancheggia il mar;

The fog to the steep hills

amid the rain ascends,

and under the mistral

the sea screams and whitens:

 

ma per le vie del borgo

dal ribollir de’ tini

va l’aspro odor dei vini

l’anime a rallegrar.

but through the alleys of the village

from the bubbling vats

goes the sour smell of wine

the souls to rejoice.

 

Gira su’ ceppi accesi

lo spiedo scoppiettando:

sta il cacciator fischiando

su l’uscio a rimirar

Turns on burning logs

the spit, sputtering;

stands the hunter whistling

on the door to gaze

 

tra le rossastre nubi

stormi d’uccelli neri,

com’esuli pensieri,

nel vespero migrar.

among the reddish clouds

flocks of blackbirds

as exiled thoughts,

in the twilight migrating.

Lord of the Dance

                                                             PREFACE

It's late November now. A long and difficult year is drawing to a close. 2021: the second year of Covid. One that few of us will ever forget !

Outside I hear the thunder and the noise of water trickling down the guttering. It's been raining hard. 'Raining cats and dogs' some may say but not those who know better! Our cat sits in the doorway looking out; while - our  new dog shuts her eyes when we put her 'welly' on. Who would blame them? I guess there are few of us that want to sing in the  cold November rain!

This takes me back to last September.  If thunderstorms on removal day wasn't enough, within days  our Mercedes is in the garage. The 'rainbow' on the horizon seems to come in the form of a cheap courtesy car.a Suzuki Swift. Despite assurances of the reliability of said 'Swift', with a dodgy clutch and low HP it was struggling to mount the hill from Camgliano. Furthermore the suspension was knackered and we had a very sick relative on board.  She had a blocked intestine and hadn't eaten for days. She was clutching her stomach and could clearly feel every bump. 

The whole situation was so surreal. But I had barely time to take it in. I had to think on my feet. Search through the packing boxes to locate some spare sheets. Construct  a makeshift drip  of a broom handle. And then phone my nurse friend for advice. By the time a retired surgeon is asking me to pass him items in Italian, the whole scene is resembling something from MASH. Little did I know then, that almost a year later I would be  doing a video lesson on said bed the day after an operation on my knee!

By the time our house hosted its third patient, I seriously began to wonder if it was built on the site of an old infirmary!

Lara came to us in August. Driving back to Giano, we  had just completed a favourable viewing of the flat in Capua. We were fairly confident of soon being footloose and fancy free. Little did we know that soon we'd be dancing to someone else's tune!

We had just cleared Vitilazio and were 15 minutes from home.  It was then we spotted our furry Ferrari, covering ground at a brisk pace, running on 3 paws. Indeed it took us some time to catch up with her.' The cripple', they say, is always the one to lead the dancing'.

We have been following her ever since:

1. To the Vet Van at Calvi:

2. To the Vet hospital at Naples

3. To the wrong Canile at Nola

4.  To the right canile at Francolise

4. And finally to her newly refurbished convalscent home here in Giano:

Indeed Lara has led us on quite a merry dance! We thought we'd lost her  after an impriviso  Tabbaci Tango at dawn. I should have known better.  Once a dancer , always a dancer.

 Several operations later,  she hobbles still. Lara: My Lord of the Dance!

                                                     POSTFACE

'I'll lead you all wherever you maybe and I'll lead you all in the dance said he'.