It's late October now. Warm sunny days and wonderfully fresh evenings. The leaves become golden, sheep return to lower pastures. Bright autumn days full of colour. Days to wander the streets of Ravello, enjoy an evening coffee in Giano, watch the sunset on the Volturno. The clocks go back. Time to rewind.
And what better place to do this rewinding than by having a spa weekend in romantic Rimini? Who's not heard of this romantic dreamy seaside resort? Located in the Emilia- Romagna province in the north of Italy, with 9 miles of golden sands, it has a lot to offer. Located on the Adriatic Sea, it was founded by the Romans in 268 BC as Ariminium. It became an important meeting point between the north and south and still bears this distinguished heritage; most notably perhaps in the Arch of Augustus and the Tiberius Bridge.
In summer this popular seaside city of 150,000 inhabitants; is busy and bustling with tourists outnumbering the locals. By mid-November, however, its streets are largely deserted and many of its 1000 hotels are empty. On its once- crowded 9 mile beach there's a few hardy dog walkers. I join them. But memories of night swims in July soon fade in the stiff wind blowing in from the sea. Tropo fresco for even a hardy Scot! Time to retreat to a warm café near the Tiberius bridge. Time to visit the Café Vecchi.
And its well worth a visit! As you can see from the photo opposite, there's much on offer to warm and sustain the frozen population. Its crowded and we have to wait for seats. We huddle together like puffed-up penguins sheltering from artic blasts.
Finally we can dive into our hot cappuccini and hunks of San Giuliano Torte. How would you describe this dense moist nutty delight? I don't know really but I can describe its effects. Its amber almond adrenaline! Recipe below.
Suitably sustained its back out on the streets again. From the Tiberius bridge we can watch the sun setting. The day is coming to an end. Time to complete the rewind.
We head back past the Art Nouveau villas that characterise this 'city of small villas'. Sadly some have been modernised into concrete boxes to house more tourists. However many retain their original character; with their palmed front gardens, sweeping staircases and fan lit pillared portals. Sadly a number are now deserted- una casa abandonatta as the Italians would say. Shut up after summer season and left for good. On a late autumn afternoon, covered in russet- tinged leaves and ivy, their yellowing brickwork and once proud entrances provoke an odd feeling of melancholy. The dinner parties, the grand balls, the distinguished guests they'd hosted. The gaiety, the glamour, the glitterati. All gone.
Maybe I've rewound too far? Time to return to the present. Time to move on. Past The Grand Hotel. Built 1906-8 by the Swiss architect Paolito Somazzi, it is now protected as a 'national monument'.
As it undoubtedly should be! It has an amazing 117 bedrooms, a large atrium, pillared restaurant and several luxurious 'living rooms'- replete with period furniture and 18th century chandeliers. Who would not count it among the jewels in Rimini's resplendent crown? Who would not want to spend the night there? Surely its the place I'm heading for? The perfect place to rewind!
Undoubtedly it is! But in excess 200e per room per night, it's beyond my accommodation budget.
Eventually arriving at our modest lodging place, its straight to it
s the basement. I head for a major defrost in its sauna and steam rooms.
Fruity Tissana in hand, I watch the lights change from purple to blue. I reflect on my weekend retreat and the busy time ahead preparing for Christmas. Soon it will be time to press play again- indeed fast forward as I juggle work projects in the spring.
San Giuliano Torte Rimini
Ingredients:
Dough:
250 grams of flour 00
250 grams of Manitoba flour, or other soft wheat flour
120 grams of sugar
100 ml of extra virgin olive oil
2 eggs
20 grams of Brewer's yeast
150 ml of milk (a low glass)
Dried fruit (70 grams of raisins + 30 grams of pine nuts +
80 grams of walnut kernels + 80 grams of almonds)
Glazing
1 beaten egg yolk with 2 tablespoons of milk
50 grams of powdered sugar dissolved in 3 tablespoons of
milk
