Thursday 9 August 2018

Fast Forward To Giano (Jano)


Its mid September now . Early autumn in many parts of the world.

In Scotland there's been some ground frosts and my sister is  throwing   logs into her stove. Here in Capua its often  still  30 degrees in the late afternoon. Cooler than it was in July and August  but hardly autumnal. Maybe I'll be throwing on a cardi next month? Looking forward to it!

Its one month on now from the  bridge tragedy in Genoa. We've two bridges over the river Volturno into Capua: one modern , one Roman. One has closed  for repairs. A banner has been hung over it saying that no-one else should die on Italian bridges. No prize for guessing which bridge is still open for use! I dodge the many cars of the morning rush hour  crossing it on my bike The stones still speak I guess!

There is certainly something reassuring about old buildings and structures that have stood the test of time. That's one thing I really like about Capua; the proximity of the old with the new. In the central Piazza dei Giudice one of the cafes has been renovated under new management, with new outdoor tables and plants. Across the square there's the 16th century town hall with its marble heads that once proudly adorned the arches of the Roman amphitheatre. God or human I don't know. But they still give a vivid impression of life to the town.
A goddess that would seem to symbolise this Roman- modern flavour of the area is Giano (Janus). The two faced woman who gives us the first month of the year, January. There is the ruins of one of her temples about 10 miles from Capua. The local village takes her name. Giano Vetusta. We've just bought a fantastic palazzo there. So let's fast forward to Giano!



It certainly doesn't take long to get there! The village is located only 25 miles or 40 km north of Naples and 12 miles or 20 km north-west of Caserta. From Capua itself its 13.2 km so about 8 miles and it takes about 20 minutes by car and about an hour with a good bike if you are very fit! I have got as far as Vitulazio in about 40 minutes, which  is just over half way. It's a lovely journey, with a 
number of fantastic little watering places- like the CafĂ© Relax- en route! There  is one small problem in the form of a very steep hill for most of the last mile. But for every modern  problem there's an ebay solution. And  I now await the arrival of my e- bike  battery charger. Fast forward to Giano then? Well, I sincerely hope so!




Whether you arrive by hybrid, horse or even Shank's pony Giano will not disappoint. This village- less than 10 miles from Capua- at 225 metres or 738 feet above sea level- is 2 degrees piu fresco.(Come August you'll appreciate this. Believe me!) It covers only 4.4 square miles- 11.5 km- and has only 638 inhabitants. No crowds, no  traffic, no rush hour. No fast forward!
Nothing that would disturb old Jano really! With his tw
o faces he can look to the future and the past. Giano presides over doors and thresholds, all new enterprises and new beginnings. It was to him that the ancient Latins prayed when they planted their seeds at the beginning of the year. Strange now to think  that he inspired my first blog post at the beginning of last year. Paying the deposit on our Giano house this weekend I may ask him: why not last September? Standing on the hill above surveying the whole valley below you can  hear him whisper:

 'My temple has been here for 2000 years and your house for almost 70 years.                                   What's your hurry? Here time means nothing'. I respond: And they'll be there long after I've gone.I'll slow down. Less of the fast forward.'