Monday 25 December 2017

Christmas in Capua







It's Christmas morning in Capua. Through grey fluffy clouds I can see either the  bright white sunshine or vivid blue sky. I'm hanging out washing on the balcony. I'm greeted with birdsong and a somewhat chill blast of air.

After  almost 3 months  al forno this summer, who's complaining! And I'm only wearing a cardigan and its 730am in December. 'Yes. Ok. Don't rub it in' I hear you saying it already!

So moving on. This is the post you weren't going to get!  Things have been busy here this autumn and winter as you've probably guessed from the lack of blog posts. I missed the figs and I'll miss the figgy pudding but I've not missed the sweet oranges and manderinos ripening on the trees, the roasted artichokes(carciofi) ) and chestnuts ( castagne) being sold by the sides of the road and two job offers. Yes busy indeed!


And still am! I need to finish this post before everyone gets going. You've had the mini sherry trifle, the mini chocolate log so now you've got the mini Christmas blog!

So here's a flavour of Christmas in Capua  2017. And in my next post I'll sum up my first year in the land of the lemons! So meanwhile raising a glass of limoncello to you! Buon Natalie!
                                                                            

                              Starry Starry Night



                          
Enjoying the Afternoon Sunshine













Monday 23 October 2017

East Of Eden






It's late October and I'm feeling mellow and in the mood for fruit. I've just come back from Grenada where I've enjoyed the most exquisite fig mousse in my life. Recipe selected, downloaded and  I on a roll.
Cycling along the leafy lanes around Capua, fragrant with Pine, I notice that there is still plenty of fruit. On the trees the  ripe pomegranates glisten like bright red rubies. The olives are turning black, the lemons yellow , the oranges orange. Still plenty of flowers; even flowers of Zucca- good to eat. But where are I fichi? Where are the grapes? Where have I been? Autumn is almost over


Indeed the season is passing swiftly after  the longest and hottest summer  on record. Now a cool 25-27 degrees in the afternoons, with cool mornings and evenings. Lucifero has legged it. But all is not well in Eden. My Arcadian autumn has been spoiled. I can not eat the forbidden fruit.

What should I do? What would Eve have done? Quit the garden? Talk to the Almighty? Munch some Galaxy? A sticky issue i
ndeed!

  What better way of combining all three than by going on pilgrimage? Yes they have recently undergone  a resurgence in popularity. The Dean of Canterbury Cathedral describes them as offering: 'An ancient tradition in tune with today's needs, (which) gives us a chance to 'walk through' those issues we have on our minds... (and) help us to focus on ‘what really matters’ and to rediscover the joy of giving and generosity. And to have a greater appreciation for life’s gifts'.





And east of Eden I'm spoiled for choice. At the northern edge of the province of Campania - in the small town of Pietrelcina- there lies the birthplace of Italy's most famous modern day saint, Padre Pio (1887-1968). Born Francesco Forgione, he was given the name of Pius (Pio in Italian) when he joined the Franciscan Order of the Minor Capuchin. He was a friar, priest, stigmatist and mystic. Eventually he was canonized by Pope John Paul 11 in 2002 and became a saint.



And what a saint he was! Persecuted much of his life by both the devil and the Catholic Church itself- who said he'd used carbolic acid to create his stigmata-  he continued to dedicate his life to God until his death. Padre Pio spent 25 years in poor health planning   the building of a hospital  in San Giovanni Rotondo, to be named the Casa Sollievo della Sofferenza or "Home to Relieve Suffering." The hospital opened in 1956.  Padre Pio's detractors used even  this project as another weapon to attack him, charging him with misappropriation of funds.
Bishop Wojtyła (later Pope John Paul II) wrote to Padre Pio in 1962 to ask him to pray for Dr. Wanda Poltawska, a friend in Poland who was suffering from cancer. Later, Dr. Poltawska's cancer was found to be in spontaneous remission. Medical professionals were unable to offer an explanation for the phenomenon. And likewise of his stigmata, which was a cause of shame for the man, and which he chose to keep covered. Food for thought indeed!
What struck me particularly, though was the poverty and sanctity of his family. They were illiterate peasants who lived in a style of house that hadn't changed much from its counterpart in Nazareth. Yet they imparted as much as of the Bible as they could remember to their children and attended mass daily. When the young Francesco expressed a desire to become a Franciscan friar, his father visited the local friary and asked them if they'd take his son. When told he had to be better educated first, he was not discouraged. He went to  America to find work raise the money to pay a private tutor for his son. And this was an illiterate man, who lived in a two roomed house, travelling from a hilltop Italian town  to America in the 1890s. Not to make his own fortune- like so many others- but  to enable his son to take up his calling from God! Practically a saint himself! Food for thought indeed!

And  for me, its the much shorter journeys  back to Eden. On the way back we take a detour to take in the beautiful seaside town of Polignano, famous for the sensational restaurant carved out of the clifftop. Yes! Wow! Here dinner starts at 150 euros a meal, sense vino. A world away from Padre Pio-  who ate rested on his way to the fields with his sheep- to eat the bread his mother had lovingly wrapped in a clean cloth.




Suitably chastened, I return to celebrate what remains of this glorious autumn. Surveying the fantastic range of produce available in my local shop- where local  Falangina can be purchased at less than 2 euros a bottle- I buy some juicy fresh Indian figs and some sticky dried ones. I make two types of  fig mousse. God is smiling. All is still good in the garden. East of Eden.












 






                                                                                     
                               




























Monday 21 August 2017

Goosy Goosy Gander



Why does a small hilltop village in southern Italy remind of 17th century London? It's difficult to say exactly.
Maybe you just have to visit  the village and see for yourself!



Formicola, is in the province of Caserta, about 45 km (28 miles) north of Naples and about 20 km (12 miles) north west of  the town of Caserta. Its name derives from the Hebrew 'Fhor Michol'-
'boiling stream' because of the hot springs in the area.
It has about 1,500 inhabitants so in size it's a lot smaller than the capital in 1600 with its 250,000 inhabitants. In character, though, it does bear some similarity. Founded in the 9th century, it still contains many Medieval buildings; such as the Santa Cristina church of the 11th century and the palazzo Carafa, the former home of Duke Diomede I Carafa, dating from 1407. It also still celebrates a number of traditional festivals such as the cherry festival, Festa della ciliegia, every June.

In the popular nursery rhyme about 17th century London, 'Goosy Gander' the geese represent the 'ladies of the night' who wandered about the city plying their trade to gain their daily bread. At the time they would have visited the popular inns and taverns like 'the Anchor' and 'Ye Old Cheshire Cheese'. If you've ever been on an historic walk through the older parts of London, through the narrow, darkened cobbled streets you can how easy it is to hide.

Formicola  also provides just as many hiding places.  Its full of abandoned houses. ruined outbuildings. crumbling barns, deserted gardens, thorn- covered ravines. And I should know I've searched them all!
If you'd fallen on hard times and were in need of sustenance in modern day Formicola where would you wander to? Perhaps to one of the village's many vineyards? Or the big cherry orchard at the entrance to the town? Or one of the three bars in the village square?
 One is open at 6am and serves fantastic hot cornetti (croissants) alla marmellata. After wandering about half the  night -believe me!- you'll appreciate it! But where would you go if you couldn't speak Italian, were really frightened- and not even human? A cat, in fact. Mmmm...... Well.... I've spent  three unsuccessful months trying to answer that same question.Any yet the answer was obvious to any intelligent animal: a good restaurant. Its called Valentino, via Coso (81040 Formicola) If we compare the menu to that of its 17th century counterpart we do notice a number of notable differences.
I know which I'd prefer. As for my cat, Boris, then I'm just guessing!
But all I can say is that it was with great difficulty that he was removed from his lodging house!

All this proves the well-known aphorism, I suppose, about following your nose to find the answer. I look forward to celebrating the return of my familiar friend in this restaurant. Meanwhile my sincerest thanks go out to its patrons and to Rosalba. She has rescued many animals and if you are able to donate to her cause the details are- https://www.facebook.com/auriliorosalba.
Alternatively if want to visit this sleepy Italian
village check out these properties-



Monday 7 August 2017

Taking The Waters: Late Summer In Montesilvano


“There is no place like the beach... where the land meets the sea and the sea meets the sky”  

Umair Siddiqui



August. Don't you look forward to the month all year long! As soon as the tinsel is boxed, its on to the internet to choose your seaside holiday. According to a recent Sunday Times survey- if you're set on foreign shores- it may well have been an Italian beach.

This year, however, you may have regretted your choice. For even those hot blooded Italians have adopted the English pre-occupation with the weather. 'Lucifero' reigns supreme. Their social media is full of it and there you can even view  a new species of human: the "homo aqua"-



We hear  the endless jokes about camels leaving the country for the African oases. We see  the Italian meteo maps awash red warning triangles. We read that  Italy is the hottest place  on earth, outside the Sahara desert! For Italians there has never been a more pressing need to take the waters!
It's early August now an we're still in the grip of this great African pestilence. If Pepys was still around he'd be writing about it in his diary. Yesterday we fled to the hills. Our destination a thermal town, Caramanico,  700 m above sea level.





Approaching the foothills the car thermometer reached
an unprecedented 42.5 degrees Celsius.We photographed it.
Then it continued to rise.
We were too hot to another  to photograph it again!

Arriving at Caramanico the only cold air we find is in a air conditioned hotel. The windows were all closed to prevent the dense smoke of  nearby forest fires entering. Dante's Inferno sprung to mind. By the time we arrived home the only waters I am able to partake of are those of my own shower!



However, as always, I remain the true Scot! And,  a recent DNA test has shown me to be a 40% Viking, so it's down to the sea early next morning. And yes, the water's fresh! Thank God!



The sea of Montesilvano has provided refreshment for  many years. The town was founded in the 11th century and grew up around a castle in the wooded -Silva-  hills above.
Now  this is   Montesilvano Colle (hill)  to distinguish it from the fishing village, Montesilvano Marina (sea) that grew into the present day beach resort. And this year- if you've chosen Italy- it  may well be the place to be.


From the fresh fountains to mitigate the thirst to the  cooling  Adriatic sea to refresh the body. There is certainly plenty of water to partake!





Today, August 5th, is to be the last one we must suffer Beelzebub's fury- according to the latest Meteo reports. Tomorrow cooling heavenly breezes will start to waft in from the Atlantic Ocean.
 A late bookings to Italy may still prove to be a wise choice. At 5.30 a.m. we are sent a portent or promise. . It comes in the form of the most beautiful rosy aurora and full blown alba sunrise that residents of Montesilvano have probably ever witnessed. Noah would be out of his ark and enjoying a celebratory swim already. And so will I be in a couple of hours.

But I have got something even more personal to celebrate. For it is not the splendid sunrise that my husband wanted to show me this morning. Not the rosy alba, but a video from Rosalba. Evidence - if evidence is needed - that even in the infernal heat that scorched since June, miracles can still occur.
In my next post I will relate this particular miracle.