Tuesday 13 October 2020

The Harbour Bright

PREFACE

'Will your eyes behold through the morning light
The city of gold and the harbour bright?
Willl your anchor safe by the heavenly shore
When life's storms are past for evermore?'




 It's dark. It's early. I've  just woken up. I hear bird  song followed moments later by owl hoots. I'm at sea. It certainly can be difficult to guess the time in early November!

Yes, this difficult year is finally coming to an end. The blizzard that blew in Covid in January has brought us Biden in November. Hopefully it will bring us  the vaccine by December.  

  In the last 6 weeks here in Campania, we have not only moved seasons and  but also moved  house. In fact the two events happened simultaneously!  On Monday 21st Sptember  as our movers munched their panini, the monsoon rains arrived. To return the next day, just after the van had been unloaded. Time and tide, they say, waits for no man and we were certainly lucky! There's no holding back the wind!


Yes, it just kept on a-blowing! Unfortunately it blasted us into yet another Covid Lockdown about two months after our arrival in Giano. Confined to their casa, the owners of a villa on the edge of the village put up their Christmas lights. I noticed them at once as I walked home on that late Saturday afternoon. Lighting my path and raising my sunken spirit, at that moment Giano became my harbour bright. Our own Christmas lights followed less than a month later to a number of compliments.



Perhaps it is the remote nature of this village that has cultivated the tough independent spirt of the inhabitants?  Situated as it is hidden in the hills above Capua, 225m above sea level and 25 km from the the province's capital, Caserta. Until the middle of the last century the only accessable route by cart or car was the steep winding one up the 'Sant ella' hill, from the village of Pignataro and the railway station below. Now it serves as one of three roads into the village so we have distinguished it as the 'scenic route'. It certainly affords the best view of the Campania plain, dominated in the distance by Mount Vesuvius.

   
 If you make the ascent by foot or cycle as many locals are doing for exercise in  early mornings or evenings, you will hear the  quiet chatter of the cavaletti (grasshoppers) and the booming sound of gunshots from the rifle range on the right side of the hill. At the top of the hill things are quieter at the small chapel dedicated to the Madonna delle Grazie and the Trapezio, the abandoned retaurant where my husband celebrated his nephew's baptism in the 1990s.



 It is here you catch your first glimpse of Giano, glistening in the sunshine. Its scattered  dwellings extending over a large area of fields and olive groves  at the bottom of a mountain range, framed by Mount Maggiore. The whole scene is lit up from mid-afternoon in winter and remains my favourite. Gazing down on  this heavenly haven it is easy to accept the Council's claim that: 'the country has everything so that you can spend your life peacefully'. I certainly am and  have no intention of seeking another!



Indeed the area has been enjoyed for thousands of years. We know that it was settled since the pre-Roman period by the Ausoni people which had settled between the Liri and Volturno rivers, the Trebulani mountains and the Veseris (Roccamonfina volcano)


When the Romans arrived about 290 BC they fought the Samnites for control of Teano, Capua and other Campanian towns. In 334 BC Cales became the first Roman colony and it was settled by farmers and shepherds. They chose Monte Fratiello, a wooden hill above modern Giano. Probably the first stone structure they built was a temple to the god Janus. (More in a forthcoming November blogpost). This structure gave  the name of their settlement; Rocciano- from the vulgar Latin 'Rocca  Ianio'.
Rocciano, then, is the oldest part of Giano Vetusto. It was inhabited from the 4th century BC  right up until the middle of the 20th century AD- about 2,300 years! Now, however, it lies abandoned and largely forgotten, with its once proud buildings largely ruined.  It lies less than a mile from modern Giano and yet I had no idea of its existence until about two months ago. Indeed I would never have visited it yet, had it not been for the kindness of Franco, a native and new friend. His family were amongst the last to inhabit Rocciano.




Rocciano largely consists of limestone houses, built on narrow alleys.  Now you can only access the village  from one road, Via Puglia, though I would advise any vehicle much larger than my mini! You can see the ruins of ancient buildings, alongside those of more modern construction, made of tuffa. Franco showed us the house where his grandfather was born and  the olive mill and threshing floor where his family worked. In Rocciano we find a wide variety of fruits: Raspberries, amarene cherries, i lemons, apples, plums...alongside a plethora of olive and nut trees. 


The fertility of this soil is clearly dependent on an abundant supply of water. With the absence of rainfall during the long hot summers in Southern Italy, it must come from underground. As the population of Rocciano expanded they settled on the lower parts of the hill, following  these underground springs.

 Indeed it was the abundance of wells (pozzi) that gave the present centre of Giano (where I live)  its name, Pozzillo- terra dei pozzi. Our own home has its own  underneath our living room. Furthermore three fractions of Giano  have names connected to water: Pozzillo, Fountanella and Fontana.
 In Piazza Pozzillo we listen to it bubbling in the fountain. In Bar Pozzillo we drink it in our iced aperitifs. In Fontana we watched it being pumped up  to fill the tank of a fire helicopter (Thankfully!) Water, water everywhere and plenty to drink! We are awash with it!   






However to actually swim in it I must head out of my harbour. For my wedding anniversary on August the 6th I choose the Thermal waters of Agnano. This thermal complex is situated on the southern side of Lake Agnano, on the edge of Naples
It is the largest thermal baths in Italy with 72 springs that generate 7 million litres of water each day. The modern day complex dates from 1912 and though now of faded splendour provides a good port of call to relax and recharge.









All in all, a wonderful day that began and ended with a haze of pinks: an anniversary bouquet from Franco's wife, Antionella and the sunset over Pozzuoli harbour. 


It's late then when I head back to my own harbour bright. I see its welcoming lights glowing as I approach. No longer at sea now. A year on, I'm almost a genuine Gianese. Anchored in my harbour bright, I'm beginning to shine.



Saturday 9 May 2020

Harvest Home 2 : Clear Skies Ahead

Capua. Mid-July. It's late afternoon and its raining heavily. (Yes!)

I'm sitting in my local cafe enjoying a raspberry ice-cream with my husband.. The skies had quickly darkened and soon the rain was coming in through the open window. Having brought no coat- and not being in a great hurry- I close the window and order a cappuccino.


Covid-19 certainly has a lot to answer for! for me in Capua, Italy it was merely 53 days without my mocha; whilst for my friend in Doncaster, Uk it was 4 days on a ventilator.. What a year! 2020 will certainly be one we'll never forget! Let's  hope there's finally clear skies ahead for all of us!    








Indeed it seems that way! House prices in the Uk are already 7% above their pre-Covid levels.  As Samuel Pepys found out in 1665 an epidemic is not bad news for everyone. The survivors have  renewed vigour and determination to enjoy all life has to offer.










' The show must go on!' as Freddie Mercury reminded me in a fantastic 'Bohemian Fantasy' concert last night in the Teatro Romano in Benevento.  Benevento is about one hour's drive from Capua; much of it through vine-covered countryside.




The vintages- such as Aglianico and Tarausi- are so widely enjoyed throughout Italy that you rarely taste them elsewhere.  And that is a great pity! Judging from the quantity of vines under production, there's sure to be a  bumper harvest this year.





Indeed this July the grapes in our own garden in Giano are also looking good.













These are preceded by a bumper harvest of oranges, lemons and tangerines in January. Four batches of marmalade and several bottles of lemoncello are surely enough to  testify to a successful harvest in 2020.  Watering the garden today under clear skies,  I note hopeful signs of a repeat performance in 2021!





Safe to say then that our fruit harvest is assured. So what of our second harvest, our home itself?
This harvest has been more difficult to realise and is still not complete. Clearly it is  more  dependent on  manpower than solar power.   Having said this, for me the highlight  of our renovations came early one bright Spring morning when the new dampcourse was laid. Liberated from wet earth, the foundations of our home could absorb the sun's energy once again.











For our third and final harvest this summer there has been the longest wait. Solar fruit, unlike, citrus fruit, is more subject  to human delay. Our 18 solar panels have been in place since January, but to quote the Beatles, they've 'had a long cold lonely winter'. And Spring for that matter. Finally, today, September 17th, they're on. Their long winter of discontent can at last be made glorious by the summer sun. We can start juicing it in and harvesting some profits!






Mercifully the Mediterranean summer  is not over.  Indeed the barbacue season is in full swing (recently enjoyed a fantastic one  near Salerno). Lucifero's chared meatballs of 2017 could yet become 2020's manna from Heaven. Indeed at 32 degrees, it's still devilishly hot!








Harvests indeed are a risky business. Even the great Egyptian pharaoh needed some help predicting his. Who could have foressen  Covid-19 coming up from the Yangtze stopping all work projects? Not to mention all the other manmade issues.


Through all these setbacks and sideshows, the sun shone on and our garden bloomed. For rainy afternoons are not common in Campania. You can safely put money on many sunny days to come. Days I can sit, glass in hand, and enjoy my new house. Safe in the knowledge that my harvest is finally home.















Friday 13 March 2020

Covid 19: Killing Time In Capua

It's mid-March now. (Yes, I know, that without the  Virus you'd never have  got this!) About 7pm it is almost pitch dark. Out on the balcony cleaning out the cat litter tray (yes!) Anyway, not a job you'd want to linger over- regardless of whether you can see it clearly!

But linger on the balcony was something I felt compelled to do. Behind the apartment block opposite- oscured from view- but clearly audible  there was  a public announcement  van blasting out  a warning: 'Resta a Casa.'


Indeed this was a message we'd had heard often on tv and the internet. Now- out there in the dark- it took on a  distinctly ominous tone. Gone was the reassuring voice of our  PM Giuseppe Conte! Had he  been deposed in a Corona Coup? Was it really a good time to be messing with  cat litter?



Indeed it was not! Better to find out what was going on.Turning to an online National paper 'Edizione Caserta' of 13th March we are informed:
' Something has changed in these hours in Capua after the discovery of the first Coronavirus case.' (Like Hell it has! More later..) .......'The infected person is in quarantine and has declared that he has not had any contact with people from Capua.......


..Yesterday the agents checked over 50 people and reported two people to the AG for not respecting the Ministerial Directives'.......
Later on ' 'The Municipal Administration has  meanwhile announced for tomorrow a Sanitation invervention  throughout the city'.
What a relief! They're only telling us to get inside or we'll be blasted with disinfectant not dum- dums!

The Governor of Campania, Vincenzo de Luca, however, issued a more dire warning: 'Over all the region citizens are obliged to stay in their own homes..In one Chinese province a citizen disobeyed the quarantine and was shot. We do not have this therapeutic method.' When the bridge- dividing the two parts of Capua- was closed for safety checks, the enclosed photos were circulated on social media!


God preserve us all! as Samuel Pepys said in 1665 when facing the Grande Pesta  of his age. The Great Plague was one of the worst disasters in world history. Samuel Pepys' diaries provide a fascinating account into how Londoners dealt with this tradegy.







In the summer of 1665 Londoners were dying from a terrifying disease in vast numbers. Although this disease was not unknown to them- like the Coronavirus is for us- a was much more deadly strain had taken the lives of 69,000, although the true figure  was probably closer to 100,000- 15% of the population. As of today 18/03 Coronavirus has infected 31,506 citizens and has taken the lives of 2,053.Mercifully less than its Medieval counterpart.Thank God!

In 1665 nobody understood what caused the disease or how it spread. Bad air  was blamed, as were witches, cats and dogs and  above all, people's sinful behaviour. At least in 2020 we know that a virus is the cause although myths as to its methods of transmission prevail.





Although when we compare the protective clothing worn both then and now they look surprisingly similar:





In 1665 in London the wealthy began fleeing the city as the death rate gre in the early summer. Charles 11 and his courtiers left in July for Hampton Court and then Oxford. Court cases were moved from westminster to Oxford. Parliament was postponed and had to sit in October at Oxford. The Lord Mayor and the aldermen stayed behind to enforce the king's orders to try to prevent the disease spreading. Those who already had plague were locked in their houses and guarded by watchmen.

Parish officials provided food. Searchers looked for dead bodies and took them to plague pits at night for burial. All trade between London and other plague towns was stopped.The border with Scotland was closed and trade with other countries ceased. No fairs were held.
Here in Italy similar measures were imposed. In mid-February, a 38 year-old man in Codogno, a small town just outside Milan, became the first known person to be infected with the new coronavirus in Italy.





In mid-February, a 38-year-old man in Codogno, a small town just outside Milan, became the first known person to be infected with the new coronavirus in Italy. The reaction by the authorities was swift. The 50,000 population who live in Codogno and nearby towns were told to only leave their homes if absolutely necessary, and the area was sealed off from the rest of Italy. As it became clear where the Virus had spread other areas were sealed off and by  Monday March 9th President Conte announced:
'All measures of the red zones are now extended to all the national territory'.
We were in lockdown.

Although Pepys was wealthy and could have fled the capital,. he chose to stay taking his own precautions. He rewrote his will, chewed tobacco that was widely believed to give protection from the pestilence and refused to wear a periwig, believing it could contain hair 'cut off the heads of people dead of the plague'.

We are also wealthy enough to leave but have no such choice. We, the well,  are ' Locked up with the sick. Indeed  even although there still seems to be only ONE confirmed case of Coronavirus in Capua (who is probably no longer contagious I may add!) is clearly still a frightening experience for some. I was waiting outside our local cleaning shop to go in several days ago; there being a one- person- plague policy in place. Eventually a lady emerged with a large bag of cleaning products. I stood aside to let her pass, keeping the one metre of distance as per government reccommendations. Taking no chances, however, she launched herself and her hound from the top of the entrance ramp.

The passage of time has similarly done nothing to change our morbid fascination.. Pepys checked the weekly mortaity bills and even visited the plague pits in Moorfields when the plague was at its peak; whilst we check for the latest stats on the internet and view the sick daily on our tvs.
Heartless we are certainly not! Pepys mourned the death of friends, reklatives, colleagues, his brewer his baker and his physician to the plague. As yet I've not lost any loved ones to Covid but was sad to hear of the death of the Chinese doctor who did the most to alert the authorities there to the danger.

A key difference would be the impact on our daily life. My last cappuncino being a distant memory. I envy  Pepys' being able to continue to work at his navy office, celebrate his cousin's wedding and follow many of his interests: indoor and outdoor.

 On the contrary, I can not go to work, choose a car , get the medical for my Italian licence, visit my friends- even walk outside without my self-cert. What's left? Not much except the thankless tasks like cleaning, assembling Ikea furniture and listening to yet another government health warning. For the moment, at least, I'm just killing time in Capua.

Who knows what the future will bring in 2020? For Pepys 1665 turned out to be suprisingly good; bringing much opportunity and wealth.  As the plague died down he wrote in his final entry for the year:
'I have never lived so merrily (besides that I have never got so much) as I have done this plague-time!'

At the moment the words of a poor woman in London who caught Coronavirus in northern Italy  resonate. She stated: 'I think the first thing I'm going to do is just go to a park and go for a walk.'
Who knows where that Spring walk will lead? Probably to a nice bar where I'll enjoy the long-forgotten cappuncino. Time to mull over my next project. It will definitely be something outdoors.
Something I can get my teeth into soon. Guess I've already killed enough time in Capua in 2020.



Postscript


1. The Origin: The Lockdown: One Month In Wuhan (23rd January 2020........)


2. The Present Situation in Northern Italy
March 18th 2020: Bergamot, Italy: No Intensive Care Beds Left

 3526 new cases and 345 new deaths in Italy: Bergamo (Lombardy region) has run out of intensive care beds. Unions are demanding the closure of post offices after the deaths of 2 postal workers who were on their job until a few days ago