Slow Rewind in Rimini

It's late October now.  Warm sunny days and wonderfully fresh evenings. The leaves become golden, sheep return to lower pastures. Bright autumn days full of colour. Days to wander the streets of Ravello, enjoy an evening coffee in Giano, watch the sunset on the Volturno. The clocks go back. Time to rewind.

And what better place to do this rewinding than by having a spa weekend in  romantic Rimini? Who's not heard of this romantic dreamy seaside resort?   Located in the Emilia- Romagna province in the north  of Italy,  with 9 miles of golden sands, it has a lot to offer. Located on the Adriatic Sea, it was founded by the Romans in 268 BC as Ariminium. It became an important meeting point between the north and south and still bears this distinguished heritage; most notably perhaps in the Arch of Augustus and the Tiberius Bridge.   

In summer this popular seaside city of 150,000 inhabitants; is busy and bustling with tourists outnumbering the locals. By mid-November, however, its streets are largely  deserted and many of its 1000 hotels are empty.  On its once- crowded 9 mile  beach there's  a few  hardy dog walkers. I join them. But memories of  night swims in July soon fade in the stiff wind blowing in from the sea. Tropo fresco for even a hardy Scot! Time to retreat to a warm café near the Tiberius bridge. Time to visit the Café Vecchi. 

 And its well worth a visit!  As you can see from the photo opposite, there's much on offer to warm and sustain the frozen population. Its crowded and we have to wait for seats. We huddle together like puffed-up penguins sheltering from artic blasts.       

Finally we can dive into our hot cappuccini and hunks of San Giuliano Torte. How would you describe this dense moist nutty delight? I don't know really but I can describe its effects. Its amber almond adrenaline! Recipe below.

                                               

Suitably sustained its back out on the streets again. From the Tiberius bridge we can watch the sun setting. The day is coming to an end. Time to complete the rewind.

We head back past the  Art Nouveau villas that characterise this 'city of small villas'. Sadly some have been modernised  into concrete boxes to house more tourists. However many retain their original character; with their palmed front gardens, sweeping staircases and fan lit  pillared portals. Sadly a number are now deserted- una casa abandonatta as the Italians would say. Shut up after summer season and left for good. On a late autumn afternoon, covered in russet- tinged leaves and ivy, their yellowing brickwork and once proud entrances provoke an odd feeling of melancholy. The  dinner parties, the grand balls, the distinguished guests they'd hosted. The gaiety, the glamour, the glitterati.  All gone. 

 

Maybe I've rewound too far? Time to return to the present. Time to move on. Past The Grand Hotel. Built  1906-8 by the Swiss architect Paolito Somazzi, it is now protected as a 'national monument'. 

As it undoubtedly should be! It has an amazing  117 bedrooms, a large atrium,  pillared restaurant and several  luxurious 'living rooms'- replete with period furniture and 18th century chandeliers. Who would  not count it among the jewels in Rimini's resplendent crown? Who would not want to spend the night there? Surely its the place I'm heading for? The perfect place to rewind!

Undoubtedly it is! But  in excess 200e per room per night, it's beyond my  accommodation budget. 











Eventually arriving at our modest lodging place, its straight to its  the basement.  I head for a major  defrost   in its  sauna and steam rooms. 

Fruity Tissana in hand, I watch the lights change from purple to blue. I reflect on my weekend retreat and the busy time ahead preparing for Christmas. Soon it will be time to press play again- indeed fast forward as I juggle work projects in the spring.

For now, though, its time to  drift away amidst  the steam and pan pipes. Back to the world of EM Forster, where every hotel room had a view and the longest journey was from the  hotel room to  the  beach.  Time to complete the rewind.

San Giuliano Torte Rimini

Ingredients:

 Dough:

250 grams of flour 00

250 grams of Manitoba flour, or other soft wheat flour

120 grams of sugar

100 ml of extra virgin olive oil

2 eggs

20 grams of Brewer's yeast

150 ml of milk (a low glass)

Dried fruit (70 grams of raisins + 30 grams of pine nuts + 80 grams of walnut kernels + 80 grams of almonds)

Glazing

1 beaten egg yolk with 2 tablespoons of milk

50 grams of powdered sugar dissolved in 3 tablespoons of milk

Fast Forward To Giano (Jano)

Its mid September now . Early autumn in many parts of the world.

In Scotland there's been some ground frosts and my sister is  throwing   logs into her stove. Here in Capua its often  still  30 degrees in the late afternoon. Cooler than it was in July and August  but hardly autumnal. Maybe I'll be throwing on a cardi next month? Looking forward to it!

Its one month on now from the  bridge tragedy in Genoa. We've two bridges over the river Volturno into Capua: one modern , one Roman. One has closed  for repairs. A banner has been hung over it saying that no-one else should die on Italian bridges. No prize for guessing which bridge is still open for use! I dodge the many cars of the morning rush hour  crossing it on my bike The stones still speak I guess!

There is certainly something reassuring about old buildings and structures that have stood the test of time. That's one thing I really like about Capua; the proximity of the old with the new. In the central Piazza dei Giudice one of the cafes has been renovated under new management, with new outdoor tables and plants. Across the square there's the 16th century town hall with its marble heads that once proudly adorned the arches of the Roman amphitheatre. God or human I don't know. But they still give a vivid impression of life to the town.
A goddess that would seem to symbolise this Roman- modern flavour of the area is Giano (Janus). The two faced woman who gives us the first month of the year, January. There is the ruins of one of her temples about 10 miles from Capua. The local village takes her name. Giano Vetusta. We've just bought a fantastic palazzo there. So let's fast forward to Giano!

It certainly doesn't take long to get there! The village is located only 25 miles or 40 km north of Naples and 12 miles or 20 km north-west of Caserta. From Capua itself its 13.2 km so about 8 miles and it takes about 20 minutes by car and about an hour with a good bike if you are very fit! I have got as far as Vitulazio in about 40 minutes, which  is just over half way. It's a lovely journey, with a 
number of fantastic little watering places- like the Café Relax- en route! There  is one small problem in the form of a very steep hill for most of the last mile. But for every modern  problem there's an ebay solution. And  I now await the arrival of my e- bike  battery charger. Fast forward to Giano then? Well, I sincerely hope so!

Whether you arrive by hybrid, horse or even Shank's pony Giano will not disappoint. This village- less than 10 miles from Capua- at 225 metres or 738 feet above sea level- is 2 degrees piu fresco.(Come August you'll appreciate this. Believe me!) It covers only 4.4 square miles- 11.5 km- and has only 638 inhabitants. No crowds, no  traffic, no rush hour. No fast forward!
Nothing that would disturb old Jano really! With his tw
o faces he can look to the future and the past. Giano presides over doors and thresholds, all new enterprises and new beginnings. It was to him that the ancient Latins prayed when they planted their seeds at the beginning of the year. Strange now to think  that he inspired my first blog post at the beginning of last year. Paying the deposit on our Giano house this weekend I may ask him: why not last September? Standing on the hill above surveying the whole valley below you can  hear him whisper:
 'My temple has been here for 2000 years and your house for almost 70 years.                                   What's your hurry? Here time means nothing'. I respond: And they'll be there long after I've gone.I'll slow down. Less of the fast forward.'