Sing a Song of Sixpence

                                                   

April is almost over. Blossoms have become fruit. A stronger sun  shines through  new leaves. It has the power to burn the skin. And yes- dear readers -I've neglected you!

It's early evening and I'm on the train home from Maddoloni. 

The sky is pale grey and the reaming sunlight filters through clouds. We're passing through the poorer suburbs of Caserta . 

Old ugly apartments have replaced bright fields of olives and vegetables.Tall poorly constructed apartment blocks shut out the light.  Washing hangs down from  rusty balcony rails. It's a depressing place many would be glad to escape from. Nowadays education may provide a few with a passport out  but how many poor Italians got the golden ticket - the lucky sixpence-  in the past? 

 

Very few we can suppose! And yet 250 years ago  only 3.5 km NW of Caserta there was a flourishing new community with model houses and plenty of work for both agricultural workers and craftsmen.

It was San Leucio founded by the Borbon king, Ferdinand IV.

Ferdinand sought a quieter residence away from his palace in Caserta to pursue hunting and meditation. Consequently he restored and remodelled a hunting lodge, the Belvedere, to become his country retreat. He imported cows from Sardinia in 1773 to begin a vaccheria and expanded the existing vineyard to supply the needs of his court.

And that would have been that, had tragedy not struck the royal household. On December 17th 1778 the king's eldest son and heir, Carlo Tito, died of smallpox. Aware of the lack of medical assistance available to the poor , the king decided to build a charitable hospital. Soon after  a silk factory was constructed to provide them with work.

Silk worms were imported from China and young people were sent to France to learn the art of weaving. Serious money was wisely invested. It was not long before silk orders were coming in from all over the world. Today we can see San Leucio silk in the Vatican, White House and Buckingham Palace.

 

They were certainly raking in the money and their employees reaped good rewards. They were assigned a house within the colony. Free education was provided for their children from the age of six. At 15 they could work in the silk factory, working fewer hours than the rest of Europe at that time.You were also given the option of working from home, weaving silk on a smaller home loom. 

These houses  were equipped with running water and toilets built in accordance with the urban planning rules of the time to ensured they would stand the test of time. Indeed they still inhabited today. Productivity was guaranteed by a cash bonus based on the level of expertise they had achieved. Various opportunities were also available for the disabled.

You were free to leave at any time. My guess is: few would have done. Most of us know when we are on to a good thing. A lucky sixpence? More like a golden sovereign! Indeed when one of these workers' houses came up for sale , it was well beyond our humble means. The only sixpence worth of heaven I can enjoy outside of San Leucio comes in chocolate form!

                

The Stones Still Speak

It's early March now. Already I can walk to work in a summer coat.The almond and peach trees have been in blossom for some time now. On the streets of Naples you can see flower sellers selling the bright yellow branches of Mimosa blossom. Winter seems to be well and truly over!

I'm on my way home from work. In the narrow cobbled streets of Capua it's very quiet. There are the smells of washing powder and ragu sauce. People are inside, about to settle down for the evening. The streets are almost deserted. On the cobbles below my feet are the brightly coloured strands of coriandoli or confetti. Evidence of a different scene. Evidence of Carnival.






This is the festival that many Roman Catholic countries celebrate in the days before Lent. The origin of the word is uncertain but it probably comes from Medieval Latin Carnem Levare or Carnelevarium, which means to take away or remove meat.Traditionally the 40 days of Lent, leading up to the celebration of Easter, was a time when people fasted or abstained from the eating of meat. The origins of the festival itself are equally unclear but probably come from a primitive festival marking the beginning of spring and the rebirth of nature.

In Italy carnival seems to be descended directly from the Saturnalia. This was an ancient Roman festival celebrated from the 17th to the 23rd of December, dedicated to the Roman god, Saturn. It was celebrated with great banquets, sacrifices and an overturning of the social order.


A slave was elected as Princeps or governor. He was assigned all power and dressed in a funny mask and brightly coloured clothes, caricaturing the dress of the noble class. He was supposedly a personification of the gods Saturn and Pluto, in charge of all the souls of the underworld but also a protector of the crops and nature.
The Romans believed that these gods wandered the earth in winter and had to be placated with gifts and celebrations in order to persuade them to return to the the underworld and ensure the fertility of the new crops. The carnival parade seems to be a direct descendant of this practice.



The  modern celebration of the carnival in Capua dates from 1886. It is orgaanised by the pro-Loco and city council. It lasts for four days; from Thursday until Shrove Tuesday. Children are given these days off school to allow them to join in the festivities.






It begins with an amazing procession of floats, marching bands,stilt walkers,  masqued people in colourful period and Halloween costumes, smoke, balloons, dancers and the dramatic arrival of the king and queen of carnival in a royal horse-drawn
carriage. You've seen nothing like it!

 

On one float you see a fantastic model of smoking Mount Vesuvius. You look again and you see a woman cooking and selling pizza on the same float. Yes! You'll never see anything like this again!




The opening ceremony takes place in the square in the evening and involves the mayor of the city publicly handing over the keys of the city to the king of the carnival. It begins a succession of shows,masked balls and performances by school groups that lasts for four days. It comes to a dramatic conclusion with the funeral procession of the king of the carnival with the burning of the bier and a dramatic firework show.



The king of Carnival has been put to rest. We can all get down to the serious business of Lent.


As I walk home it is King Carnival's speech to the people of Capua  that I remember. It is a long satire or 'Cicuzze'-  that takes its name from  the sharp bebbles that can wound.

In the Judges Square, in front of many of the town's inhabitants, he boldly gave forth on the problems  that it  faces in the present day,highlighting the weaknesses of the recent administration in governing the town. Castigat ridendo mores in a very clever and amusing manner.



 He recounts the attractions of the town: its intriguing history, impressive architecture and its rich culture heritage. 'The stones still speak' he concluded.

As my modern court shoes slip between the town's old cobbles yet again, I am forced to agree.
Modern fashion must give way to ancient traditions. I must buy another pair of shoes.

A Home Fit For Heroes To Live In- Part Two

Who was their leader? Historians believe he was a Thracian, born in 111BC in Strymon, near the Sturma river in Bulgaria. He seems to have once been a Roman soldier, before deserting and being sold as a gladiator. Many people now picture him as Kirk Douglas. Yes he was the legendary hero, Spartacus.




This incredible escape alone from such a place is surely more than enough to make Spartacus a true hero in anyone's eyes.

But there's more. Spartacus' band defeated the Roman legions sent after them, enlisting many other slaves into their group. They camped on Mount Vesuvius- probably after Mount Tifata. They escaped being starved out by descending the mountain on vine ropes and raiding the Roman camp. They then went on to defeat a second legion sent against them, persuading many locals to join them, to increase their army to about 70,000.


A skilled military strategist, he went on to have a number of other victories against the Roman legions.Finally the Rome senate was so alarmed by the threat to Rome posed by Spartacus' forces that they enlisted the help of the wealthiest Roman of the time, Crassus, to come to their aid. It took the combined forces of  Pompey and Crassus to finally defeat him in 71BC. Spartacus, we are told, died in battle ; whilst the survivors of his army were crucified along the Via Appia from Capua to Rome. Heroes every one of them.

 Back in the museum cafe. Another coffee. It's dark now. I can no longer see the amphitheatre outside so clearly now. But it is no longer remote. It's strangely part of my new home.A home that was fit for heroes to live in.

A Home Fit For Heroes To Live In - Part One

It's mid February already! Preparations for the Carnival in Capua have already begun.I've been here for 6 weeks now. After two interviews seems like I have two jobs! Like a plant I seem to have absorbed enough sunshine and food to want to put down roots. Or maybe I've absorbed something stronger?
Something in the air? It's difficult to say. It's difficult to be clear. It's already difficult to contemplate leaving.

I's sitting in the museum cafe of the Roman
amphitheatre at Santa Maria Capua Vetere
This is the second largest amphitheatre after the colosseum. Orginally a four-tiered structure able to seat 60,000 people, decorated with elaborate columns and sculpture; some of which remain. It was begun by the emperor Nerva and completed by Trajan and Hadrian in 138AD. The huge arches glisten in the late afternoon sunshine. You sip your coffee. You are remote from it all.


That changes when you enter the building. You climb the red brick steps and gaze down at the huge arena below.

You begin to imagine the gruesome scenes that the spectators witnessed 2000 years before. You begin to feel uneasy. Yet you want to find out more.










You descend similar red brick steps below the ground. Now its almost dark. There are occasional square holes in the roof above you that allow natural light to enter.There's grooves in the walls that maybe held flaming torches. A well built water channel runs along the floor. The passages extend outwards, well beyond the perimeter of the amphitheatre. To where? The cages that held the half-starved wild animals? To the Ludus,  the gladiator school?

Suddenly you are startled. You come across a small door leading out onto the arena. Then a larger door, one larger enough for wild animals. Even now, 2000 years on, this place has the power to shock. I have never before experienced what it is to be caught in a deadly trap. These walls still seem to contain the sheer terror felt by both men and animals.Who could possibly escape?








And yet 70 gladiators did! In 73BC they seized kitchen tools and fought their way out of the place, with several wagons of gladiatorial weapons and armour.

Calling All The Heroes

It's mid-afternoon. I'm standing on the terrace of the temple of Diana Tifatina.
Remember it from my last blog?

If you ever stand here you'll never forget the view of the valley for  about 40 miles, from the left to the right, the Vesuvius, Caserta, the isle of Capri, St. Maria Capua Vetere (the ancient Capua), Capua and the Aurunci mountains sloping toward the sea.


Did a great general stand in this same place to survey his vast army camped in the plain below?
Non vedete che la luoga di heroi? A place for heroes?
I ask the question but the answer already hangs in the air:
'Si piu di uno'.

So its back to the History books. Am I right? Will I find any proof? Or am have I just watched too many war films? Time to forget about sixth sense and come to my senses I tell myself.



Yet I'm right! Quite soon I find the name of a general who I'm reliably informed stood in just this place to plan his campaign as he watched his forces below. A name that has been endured for over 2000 years. And will endure for some more. A name that you will be familar with. Hannibal. One of the greatest military strategists in history. He has been called 'the father of strategy' by the military historian, Theodore Ayrault Dodge.. He became Rome's greatest enemy and to defeat him, Rome was forced to adopt many of his tactics. He stands alongside Alexander The Great, Julius Caesar, Napoleon, Rommel and Eisenhower.


Hannibal (247-183/181 BC) was indeed one of Rome's deadliest enemies. He was born in the great ancient city of Carthage in north Africa. At the time theses great empires were battling for control of the Mediterranean sea and the lucrative trade that was conducted there. He had surprised the Romans by crossing the Alps into Italy with 36 elephants in the depths of winter. He went on to win huge victories at Trebia, Lake Traasiene and Cannae. During the latter battle he distinguished himself as the great strategist, displaying his knowledge of both the strengths and weaknesses of his opponent and employing his unique strengths to achieve victory. This enabled him to win over many former allies of Rome. He occupied Italy for over 15 years before being defeated on the plains of Zama in 202BC. But this was not in Italy, but back in  h is homeland of Africa.


So how did this  great general come to be in Capua?
The great Roman historian, Livy, tells us that he 'had marched the Campanian district towards the lower sea with the view of attacking Neapolis (Naples) so that he might have a city accessing the sea'.
{'The History of Rome, Book 23}
Capua had defected to Hannibal after his famous victory at Cannae in 216BC and he had made Capua his winter quarters in 215 BC and conducted his campaign from there. During this campaign he had camped on Mount Tifata,, east of Capua. Yes!

So how long was he up there?
Only three days it seems. After this short pause he challenged the Romans to fight him, although outnumbered by them 2:1. Although the battle did not produce any decisive results, the Romans withdrew from Campania.

Research done. Books closed. Its early morning. I want to return to the temple of Diana Tifatina. To tell the spirits that they were right: more than one great general stood there.Who was it? Well that's another story another day.

New Home In The Second Rome

Rush hour. Ora di  punta as the Italians say. It's already dark. I'm shopping.

I pay my money, I take my chance. Laden with bags I dodge the Italian cars once again. A pretty young woman has just sped past me in a new 500. She's not seen me. She's not seen anyone. Separate a Neopolitan from their cellulare and that's a risk I'm not prepared to take!

  On the Roman bridge I pause to take in the beautiful  sunset. Tra monto in Italian- across in the mountains. In this case across the river Volturno below. The wind becomes stronger. It's time to head for home.


Home? Si in Capua. This attractive traditional Italian town in Caserta province has been my home for less than a month. Yet  I feel I know it somehow. Maybe you do too?

Nowadays a town of 19,000 inhabitants. Twenty one centuries ago Cicero, the famous Roman orator, described it as 'the Second Rome'. Old Capua is the modern day Santa Maria Capua Vetere. Situated on the VIa Appia, the ancient Super Highway leading to Rome. It was founded in the ninth century BC and flourished thereafter due to the abundance of produce the rich volcanic soil here makes possible.

Evidence of this pre-Roman past lies all around us. An example is the temple of Diana Tifatina, in Saint Angelo, 3 miles from Capua. Built by the Samnites in the 5th century BC, it has remained a place of spiritual importance to the present day, with a Catholic Church being built on top in the first century AD. From the terrrace you can see see Vesuvius on the left, the Naples coast, the isle of Capri and the Ausonini mountains. At sunset it's breathtaking!

In fact this whole area invites closer inspection.Rich in natural and architectural beauties, with  Pompeii and Herculaeum only a 40 minute journey away , Oplonti, Formia and Cuma even closer.. Evidence of a glorious past lie all around. A past that we know something about, a past that repays further investigation.

Villas In The Sun, Castles In The Rain

 

Picture Provenance with  Roman ruins and and lemon trees and you're almost there. Amidst this landscape, in Caserta, on a sunny Saturday  we

begin our search for our new home.

There are many possibilities: holiday villas near Liberi, old stone built houses in hilltop villages above Casserta,modern apartments hugging  the cliffs of Montregone,  the abandoned farmhouses that litter the countryside.


 You can take your pick. Like a typical Italian celebratory meal there are just too many tempting possibilities to choose!










Tiring work indeed! We take a break to lunch outside a bar in the Sunshine at Triflisco, near a pebble-bottomed pool of sparkling water. This is as close to Paradise as you'll get in this life!

Sunday is a quieter day. We spend it in Nola listening to a friend's band entertain a private party in ancient country estate dating back to the 17th century. We look out of huge windows on to  castles towering over orange trees in the Mediterranean rain.






The light fades as afternoon turns to evening. The band plays on, yet another course arrives. Can we still dance? Of course we can!