Monday, 23 October 2017

East Of Eden






It's late October and I'm feeling mellow and in the mood for fruit. I've just come back from Grenada where I've enjoyed the most exquisite fig mousse in my life. Recipe selected, downloaded and  I on a roll.
Cycling along the leafy lanes around Capua, fragrant with Pine, I notice that there is still plenty of fruit. On the trees the  ripe pomegranates glisten like bright red rubies. The olives are turning black, the lemons yellow , the oranges orange. Still plenty of flowers; even flowers of Zucca- good to eat. But where are I fichi? Where are the grapes? Where have I been? Autumn is almost over


Indeed the season is passing swiftly after  the longest and hottest summer  on record. Now a cool 25-27 degrees in the afternoons, with cool mornings and evenings. Lucifero has legged it. But all is not well in Eden. My Arcadian autumn has been spoiled. I can not eat the forbidden fruit.

What should I do? What would Eve have done? Quit the garden? Talk to the Almighty? Munch some Galaxy? A sticky issue i
ndeed!

  What better way of combining all three than by going on pilgrimage? Yes they have recently undergone  a resurgence in popularity. The Dean of Canterbury Cathedral describes them as offering: 'An ancient tradition in tune with today's needs, (which) gives us a chance to 'walk through' those issues we have on our minds... (and) help us to focus on ‘what really matters’ and to rediscover the joy of giving and generosity. And to have a greater appreciation for life’s gifts'.





And east of Eden I'm spoiled for choice. At the northern edge of the province of Campania - in the small town of Pietrelcina- there lies the birthplace of Italy's most famous modern day saint, Padre Pio (1887-1968). Born Francesco Forgione, he was given the name of Pius (Pio in Italian) when he joined the Franciscan Order of the Minor Capuchin. He was a friar, priest, stigmatist and mystic. Eventually he was canonized by Pope John Paul 11 in 2002 and became a saint.



And what a saint he was! Persecuted much of his life by both the devil and the Catholic Church itself- who said he'd used carbolic acid to create his stigmata-  he continued to dedicate his life to God until his death. Padre Pio spent 25 years in poor health planning   the building of a hospital  in San Giovanni Rotondo, to be named the Casa Sollievo della Sofferenza or "Home to Relieve Suffering." The hospital opened in 1956.  Padre Pio's detractors used even  this project as another weapon to attack him, charging him with misappropriation of funds.
Bishop Wojtyła (later Pope John Paul II) wrote to Padre Pio in 1962 to ask him to pray for Dr. Wanda Poltawska, a friend in Poland who was suffering from cancer. Later, Dr. Poltawska's cancer was found to be in spontaneous remission. Medical professionals were unable to offer an explanation for the phenomenon. And likewise of his stigmata, which was a cause of shame for the man, and which he chose to keep covered. Food for thought indeed!
What struck me particularly, though was the poverty and sanctity of his family. They were illiterate peasants who lived in a style of house that hadn't changed much from its counterpart in Nazareth. Yet they imparted as much as of the Bible as they could remember to their children and attended mass daily. When the young Francesco expressed a desire to become a Franciscan friar, his father visited the local friary and asked them if they'd take his son. When told he had to be better educated first, he was not discouraged. He went to  America to find work raise the money to pay a private tutor for his son. And this was an illiterate man, who lived in a two roomed house, travelling from a hilltop Italian town  to America in the 1890s. Not to make his own fortune- like so many others- but  to enable his son to take up his calling from God! Practically a saint himself! Food for thought indeed!

And  for me, its the much shorter journeys  back to Eden. On the way back we take a detour to take in the beautiful seaside town of Polignano, famous for the sensational restaurant carved out of the clifftop. Yes! Wow! Here dinner starts at 150 euros a meal, sense vino. A world away from Padre Pio-  who ate rested on his way to the fields with his sheep- to eat the bread his mother had lovingly wrapped in a clean cloth.




Suitably chastened, I return to celebrate what remains of this glorious autumn. Surveying the fantastic range of produce available in my local shop- where local  Falangina can be purchased at less than 2 euros a bottle- I buy some juicy fresh Indian figs and some sticky dried ones. I make two types of  fig mousse. God is smiling. All is still good in the garden. East of Eden.












 






                                                                                     
                               




























Monday, 21 August 2017

Goosy Goosy Gander



Why does a small hilltop village in southern Italy remind of 17th century London? It's difficult to say exactly.
Maybe you just have to visit  the village and see for yourself!



Formicola, is in the province of Caserta, about 45 km (28 miles) north of Naples and about 20 km (12 miles) north west of  the town of Caserta. Its name derives from the Hebrew 'Fhor Michol'-
'boiling stream' because of the hot springs in the area.
It has about 1,500 inhabitants so in size it's a lot smaller than the capital in 1600 with its 250,000 inhabitants. In character, though, it does bear some similarity. Founded in the 9th century, it still contains many Medieval buildings; such as the Santa Cristina church of the 11th century and the palazzo Carafa, the former home of Duke Diomede I Carafa, dating from 1407. It also still celebrates a number of traditional festivals such as the cherry festival, Festa della ciliegia, every June.

In the popular nursery rhyme about 17th century London, 'Goosy Gander' the geese represent the 'ladies of the night' who wandered about the city plying their trade to gain their daily bread. At the time they would have visited the popular inns and taverns like 'the Anchor' and 'Ye Old Cheshire Cheese'. If you've ever been on an historic walk through the older parts of London, through the narrow, darkened cobbled streets you can how easy it is to hide.

Formicola  also provides just as many hiding places.  Its full of abandoned houses. ruined outbuildings. crumbling barns, deserted gardens, thorn- covered ravines. And I should know I've searched them all!
If you'd fallen on hard times and were in need of sustenance in modern day Formicola where would you wander to? Perhaps to one of the village's many vineyards? Or the big cherry orchard at the entrance to the town? Or one of the three bars in the village square?
 One is open at 6am and serves fantastic hot cornetti (croissants) alla marmellata. After wandering about half the  night -believe me!- you'll appreciate it! But where would you go if you couldn't speak Italian, were really frightened- and not even human? A cat, in fact. Mmmm...... Well.... I've spent  three unsuccessful months trying to answer that same question.Any yet the answer was obvious to any intelligent animal: a good restaurant. Its called Valentino, via Coso (81040 Formicola) If we compare the menu to that of its 17th century counterpart we do notice a number of notable differences.
I know which I'd prefer. As for my cat, Boris, then I'm just guessing!
But all I can say is that it was with great difficulty that he was removed from his lodging house!

All this proves the well-known aphorism, I suppose, about following your nose to find the answer. I look forward to celebrating the return of my familiar friend in this restaurant. Meanwhile my sincerest thanks go out to its patrons and to Rosalba. She has rescued many animals and if you are able to donate to her cause the details are- https://www.facebook.com/auriliorosalba.
Alternatively if want to visit this sleepy Italian
village check out these properties-



Monday, 7 August 2017

Taking The Waters: Late Summer In Montesilvano


“There is no place like the beach... where the land meets the sea and the sea meets the sky”  

Umair Siddiqui



August. Don't you look forward to the month all year long! As soon as the tinsel is boxed, its on to the internet to choose your seaside holiday. According to a recent Sunday Times survey- if you're set on foreign shores- it may well have been an Italian beach.

This year, however, you may have regretted your choice. For even those hot blooded Italians have adopted the English pre-occupation with the weather. 'Lucifero' reigns supreme. Their social media is full of it and there you can even view  a new species of human: the "homo aqua"-



We hear  the endless jokes about camels leaving the country for the African oases. We see  the Italian meteo maps awash red warning triangles. We read that  Italy is the hottest place  on earth, outside the Sahara desert! For Italians there has never been a more pressing need to take the waters!
It's early August now an we're still in the grip of this great African pestilence. If Pepys was still around he'd be writing about it in his diary. Yesterday we fled to the hills. Our destination a thermal town, Caramanico,  700 m above sea level.





Approaching the foothills the car thermometer reached
an unprecedented 42.5 degrees Celsius.We photographed it.
Then it continued to rise.
We were too hot to another  to photograph it again!

Arriving at Caramanico the only cold air we find is in a air conditioned hotel. The windows were all closed to prevent the dense smoke of  nearby forest fires entering. Dante's Inferno sprung to mind. By the time we arrived home the only waters I am able to partake of are those of my own shower!



However, as always, I remain the true Scot! And,  a recent DNA test has shown me to be a 40% Viking, so it's down to the sea early next morning. And yes, the water's fresh! Thank God!



The sea of Montesilvano has provided refreshment for  many years. The town was founded in the 11th century and grew up around a castle in the wooded -Silva-  hills above.
Now  this is   Montesilvano Colle (hill)  to distinguish it from the fishing village, Montesilvano Marina (sea) that grew into the present day beach resort. And this year- if you've chosen Italy- it  may well be the place to be.


From the fresh fountains to mitigate the thirst to the  cooling  Adriatic sea to refresh the body. There is certainly plenty of water to partake!





Today, August 5th, is to be the last one we must suffer Beelzebub's fury- according to the latest Meteo reports. Tomorrow cooling heavenly breezes will start to waft in from the Atlantic Ocean.
 A late bookings to Italy may still prove to be a wise choice. At 5.30 a.m. we are sent a portent or promise. . It comes in the form of the most beautiful rosy aurora and full blown alba sunrise that residents of Montesilvano have probably ever witnessed. Noah would be out of his ark and enjoying a celebratory swim already. And so will I be in a couple of hours.

But I have got something even more personal to celebrate. For it is not the splendid sunrise that my husband wanted to show me this morning. Not the rosy alba, but a video from Rosalba. Evidence - if evidence is needed - that even in the infernal heat that scorched since June, miracles can still occur.
In my next post I will relate this particular miracle.

Sunday, 2 July 2017

Taking Stock: Midsummer In Maddaloni


Six months on.
Maybe time to take stock eh? Have I  started to integrate  into Italian society? I may have put down some roots but have I produced any new leaves or fruit?



It's early July now. And yes it's hot. Very hot. Across Europe we've been battled with temperatures that have exceeded even those of 76. Back in England, an all -time high of 34.5 (94F) was recorded at Heathrow on the 21st of June. What a year to choose to move to Italy!

So what's it like here then? Well every day in June the temperatures have exceeded 30 degrees- which I'm informed is untypically hot even for southern Italy. The grapes are swelling only on watered vines and ripe plums and we see apricots being picked in early evenings. Yes, mad dogs and Englishmen......


But you're a Scot. Didn't the legendary Scottish missionary, David Livingstone survive the heat and insects of darkest Peru? Or was that Paddington Bear? Anyway that was long before the invention of the double raspberry magnum! Nevertheless in such heat- heat that's lifted many floor tiles in our study- you struggle to take stock of anything beyond the contents of our fridge- freezer!
So when your employer asks you to a social evening in Maddaloni outside, you realise that  might be the only opportunity this month to test how successfully you can blend in with the natives.


 So where is Maddaloni? Its at the foot of one of theTifata hills, in central Campania. What is it like? Its a large town with a population of  almost 40.000. Towering above the town you can see the medieval castle and church of San Michele. Looks good eh? Sadly one of the first things you see from the autostrada is the huge redundant cement factory. Anyway it does have a number of churches with very beautiful paintings and decoration. It does have charm and its pretty typical for Campania.





So back to the evening. Mediterranean garden.
Tasty pasta dinner. A carafe of some good local red wine.  You get the picture.

The band are excellent. They play Tammurriotan music. The singer takes us through a range of  well known songs, 17th century Neapolitan bards and some of his own compositions, celebrating  the culture and life of this region. 'Nothing is wrong with Maddaloni' he croons.
Well except the deep potholes in the road that have nearly destroyed my husband's car, he may be right. Anyway with a beautiful sunset and a cooling breeze to complete a perfect evening, I'm not in any mood to find fault with the town- or with anything for that matter!

The band plays on. My employer asks me to dance the Tarantella with her. It is an energetic but intricate dance, requiring coordination and poise. Both of which I decidedly lack. But when did that ever stop me! And anyway I didn't want to give offence.
So I get up and dance not only with her but with some other guests. For a short time I even manage to mirror the movements of my partners.

Later that evening my employer gives a speech. She talked about local culture and how it can be transmitted through movement. I sincerely hope so! Roots yes. And maybe some strange fruit!




I'd love to hear from some of my readers. How have you tested your integration into a new society?